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BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn

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Được tổ chức tại tại Central Hall Westminster của Luân Đôn, đối diện Tòa nhà Quốc hội –  biểu tượng của nền dân chủ châu Âu, nơi mà Shakespeare trích dẫn: “Sự hỗn loạn lại tái diễn”, Burberry đã diễn giải sự hỗn loạn theo cách của riêng mình. Khán giả đứng tập trung lại với nhau trong bóng tối, không xếp hàng cũng không có hàng ghế đầu nào hết. Không ai đeo khẩu trang, và mọi người tự giác lùi lại phía sau để nhường chỗ cho các người mẫu, bạn bè và nghệ sĩ – những khách mời nổi tiếng của Riccardo Tisci mỗi khi họ đi xuống từ một nơi nào đó trên cao trong khán phòng ốp gỗ.

Nằm trong phạm vi những ý tưởng của Tisci về hiện thực hỗn loạn trên toàn cầu, cũng như các vấn đề về dịch bệnh, thế hệ và giới tính, những người mẫu leo lên để tạo dáng trên những chiếc bàn được đặt đầy những món dụng cụ bằng bạc và pha lê, như thể để chuẩn bị cho một bữa tối kiểu đồng quê. Một dàn hợp xướng hàng trăm người hát cùng một dàn nhạc tạo nên “phông nền” cho các bộ trang phục.

Đối với ngành công nghiệp thời trang, đây có lẽ là một trong những show diễn dân chủ và tự do nhất trong lịch sử nhưng ngược lại đối với, đội ngũ tổ chức, an ninh và các người mẫu thì show diễn thật sự căng thẳng. Khung cảnh, không khí và cách tiếp cận này chẳng khác gì BST hợp tác giữa Supreme x Burberry đang gây nên cảnh ùn tắc trên các con phố mua sắm và tạo nên những con số doanh thu thực sự lớn.

BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 1
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 2
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 3
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 4
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 5
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 6

“Đây là một bộ sưu tập tái tạo lại những gì tôi tìm thấy ở Burberry và những gì tôi đã cảm nhận được từ cuộc sống thời điểm này ở Anh,” giám đốc sáng tạo Riccardo Tisci nói trước show diễn. “Tôi đã rất sợ. Với tư cách là một người Ý, thì một quốc gia lịch sử như nước Anh có rất nhiều điều để nói. Vì vậy, cần có thời gian để làm quen và cảm nhận mọi thứ. Và bây giờ tôi đã tìm ra con đường cho riêng mình”.

Và bởi vì Tisci đã thực sự hiểu một Burberry của nước Anh, hai bộ sưu tập đã ra mắt — một bộ dành cho nam giới và bộ sưu tập dành cho nữ giới. Đối trang phục nữ, nhà thiết kế sử dụng những gam màu tươi sáng và đường kẻ caro cho các món đồ công sở ban ngày, và sắc đen cùng gam màu bạc kim loại óng ánh cho những chiếc váy dạ hội sang trọng, phá cách.

BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 7
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 8
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 9
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 10
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 11
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 12

Tisci cũng đã tập trung vào những chiếc áo khoác chần bông kiểu đồng quê, đồng thời vẽ ra biểu tượng của hiệp sĩ Burberry Prorsum trên lưng ngựa với những chiếc váy trùm đầu và áo choàng tartan. Cùng với đó là màn kết hợp không thể nào Anh Quốc hơn với váy xếp li dài ngang gối cùng boots cao cổ ôm sát chân.

Bên cạnh đó, phụ kiện thời trang xuất hiện không quá nhiều những cũng đủ tạo nên điểm nhấn ấn tượng cho bộ sưu tập. Từ những chiếc mũ lưỡi trai đội nửa đầu, những chiếc vòng thêu, khuyên tai hình nơ to bản, vòng cổ dạng xích như tấm khiên thời trung cổ… cho đến kính mắt và túi xách, nhà thiết kế đã hướng tới việc đón nhận sự đa dạng và tính toàn diện mà Tisci đã đi tiên phong trong lĩnh vực thời trang ngay từ những ngày đầu khởi nghiệp.

BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 13
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 14
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 15
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 16
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 17
BST Burberry Thu – Đông 2022: hiện thực trong thế giới hỗn loạn - Ảnh 18

“Mọi người không muốn bị đóng khung trong bốn bức tường nữa. Không chỉ thế hệ trẻ, mà thực sự là mọi người nói chung. Ai cũng muốn hét lên tự do, với những gì đang diễn ra trên thế giới,” anh kết luận. “Đôi khi, bạn muốn nhắm mắt lại và lờ đi những gì đang xảy ra. Nhưng bạn biết đấy, là con người cùng nhau, chúng ta có thể thay đổi mọi thứ một cách từ từ. Vì thế hãy cố gắng trở nên tích cực”.

Vài giờ trước buổi biểu diễn, Burberry cũng công bố rằng họ đã tăng số tiền quyên góp của mình cho Tổ chức Chữ thập đỏ Anh về Khủng hoảng Ukraine, và họ cũng đang quyên góp cho Tổ chức Cứu trợ Trẻ em và UNICEF. Nhà mốt cho biết ngoài hỗ trợ tài chính, họ đang xem xét cách thức có thể tận dụng chuỗi cung ứng toàn cầu của mình để cung cấp thực phẩm cũng như nơi ở cho những người di cư vì chiến tranh.

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